There’s a strong sense of accomplishment that one draws from pushing themselves to the limits. Especially, when an effort has paid off. All of a sudden, the pains and sacrifice cease to matter. You get consumed in a rare feeling of sheer satisfaction.
Moments before we set off on a trek in the famous Bwindi impenetrable forest national park, I didn’t know what to expect. Well, I had a flimsy idea – walking in a forest. I have tracked chimpanzees in Kibaale forest national park. I assumed the experience would be similar. It wasn’t.
The difference would really sink in after returning to Ihamba Residence where we were staying later that Saturday afternoon. We had trekked a section of Bwindi forest for seven hours. Inconceivable, for many, but very rewarding.
A team of us (some 15 or so travel writers) had gone to Bwindi to attend an event to inaugurate a Batwa cultural centre.
Then we decided to use one of the days to do a nature walk. The idea of a ‘nature walk’ sounds like a relaxed, peaceful and hassle-free activity. On the face of it, you imagine a leisure walk, beautiful sights, and adventure. Soon enough, you figure out what the actual experience is. It isn’t rosy.
Our trek began in a vast greenery of tea gardens uphill. Tea farming is a source of livelihood for most families in Mpungu sub-county, Kanungu district where we were. We were in the company of Tina Katushabe, who runs Ihamba Residence, Michael (our guide), and a ranger armed with a gun.
Gun, so as to keep us safe in case anything/anyone poses a threat. In the entire crew, only Michael knew what direction this excursion would take. He led us and used his machete to chat a path for the rest of us.
Soon enough, we were in this thick vegetation with endless miles of rainforest ahead. Michael constantly gave us a heads-up on what we were getting into, especially cautioning us to avoid the thorny plants. It’s recommended that you wear clothing with long sleeves (preferably thick enough) to protect your arms from thorny or itchy thicket. A pair of long socks and trekking boots are also highly recommended.
The forest is a collection of very diverse vegetation which is sometimes tricky to navigate. I recall asking our guide whether I needed to worry about snakes. I dread them. He said that the sound from our movements would keep them away. In any case, snakes wouldn’t find the cold weather in Uganda’s southwest favorable. They often prefer warm habitats.
We crossed a small stream. Then we began to go uphill. At certain points, we followed existing footpaths that seemed to have been used before. For the most part, the tall trees and their thick canopy shielded us from the sun.
Each one of us had a walking stick, a very helpful tool for support. It acts as your third leg. At the numerous sections where the earth is steep and slippery or you are not quite sure where to land your foot, you will use your stick for support.
The group works like a long interlinked chain. Each one of us being an important piece. The person ahead of you is your third eye. They will alert you about what you need to be cautious about, and you’ll do the same for the person behind you.
All this while, the conversation kept going. We joked and laughed about pretty much everything, much of the time guys simply threw mean jokes at each other. When I slipped and fell on my back at a steep slope and asked the videographer to cut out that embarrassing bit from his final footage, nobody gave a rat’s arse. They would all have flogged me, if they could, for even mentioning it.
Many of the guys in the group had a good sense of humor. And being acquaintances who have known each other for a while, everyone has something (embarassing) on the other. Trying to catch a breath while almost choking on laughter is tough work. Yet this is what makes the tedious exercise bearable. The fact that you are not in this alone somehow keeps you going.
A bottle of drinking water is as important as the walking stick. Staying hydrated is all the energy you’ll need to keep going. Keep going, stop for breaks and resume. That was the cycle. There were times the group was unconsciously torn into two, due to our different paces. Later, we would reunite. Many times, you felt we were headed nowhere. That perhaps our guide had lost his bearings.
It’s hard to find hope when all you are surrounded with is a thick vast forest and you’ve been walking for hours. Bwindi forest is 331 square kilometers wide. But Michael kept reassuring us we were soon approaching our landmark – the waterfalls.
There were many steep and slippery slopes, but there was this particular point we came to that proved challenging. It was so vertical that you needed help from the person ahead of you, to go down it safely. I recall Michael, myself and another colleague spending some time aiding everyone that came after us to maneuver this spot. At this point, dirtying your clothes mattered less. Teamwork and safety is what counted.
Some moments get real and intense. Like when a large stone rolled down and hit one of the ladies in the back. It hit her so hard that she cried helplessly. In that moment, it occurred to us that actually many things could go wrong. But soon enough we were pushing on.
I remember the relief that dawned on me as the roaming sound of the waterfalls got louder and louder, and when we finally reached a river – River Mbwa – in a valley. Here, we spent about 30 minutes taking photos and catching a breather. Beholding the sight, you can’t help but marvel at the stark contrast; on one end, a huge forest inside of which life seems static and quiet, and on the other, a stream whose burbling waters flow endlessly. More than ever, you admire the irony that nature is.
When you cross the river, it’s another uphill trek. Some of the paths were tucked under the thickets; you had to literally crawl on your knees.
Seven hours later, when we finally set foot back at the Ihamba Residence, it sunk in. I appreciated the importance of what I had accomplished. Spending a day in the midst of a pristine forest, interacting with nature, bonding with friends while at the same time doing a healthy physical exercise. There can never be a better time to appreciate the importance of conserving nature. All this was possible because Bwindi forest exists.
